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Archive for Lawns

Last Fertilizer Application until Fall

By Wells Brothers
Monday, June 10th, 2019

fertilizer

Now is the time for the last fertilizer application until the fall. You need to get it applied before June 30th. The number of different fertilizers on the market are numerous as are the recommendations on what fertilizer to use. Here at Wells Brothers, we try to keep it simple so here are our recommendations.

Bermuda lawns on the synthetic side:

Bermuda on the all-natural side:

Synthetics for St. Augustine:

All-naturals for St. Augustine:

Fertilizing St. Augustine in hot weather with high nitrogen water soluble fertilizers, (21-0-0 ammonia sulfate, 46-0-0 urea) can promote the growth of “Grey Leafspot” fungus. I recommend the all-naturals for this time of year.

Helpful Handbook and Guide:

  • Lawn Fertilizer Guide
  • Grey Leafspot Handbook
Categories : Gardens, Lawns, News & Updates

Controlling Grubs

By Wells Brothers
Monday, June 10th, 2019

controlling grubs in the lawnIt’s the start of white grub killing season again and we’ve got some great products for controlling grubs in your lawn. The grub is a turf grass-destroying larva of the June bug. They eat the roots of grass. If it makes you feel any better, everyone has grubs, even if the lawn shows no damage. Looking for grubs requires removing a sod size piece of lawn that is three to four inches thick with a shovel. I was taught that four or more grubs per square foot indicate a problem and should be treated.

There are both all-natural and synthetic ways to treat for grubs. Grubs are actively feeding from July to October. To get the most of your grub killing dollar, apply synthetics in the middle of June through the end of August. Products with the active ingredient Imidacloprid are the best on the chemical side. We carry Grub Beater from Bonide and 24 Hour Grub Killer from Bayer. Both will treat up to 5000sf and Imidacloprid is the active ingredient with Grub Beater being a little cheaper.

The all-natural side has two standouts, Milky Spore and Beneficial Nematodes. Milky Spore is a bacterium that kills grubs. The instructions say to apply it three times a year for two years and done. Opinions vary on the effectiveness of Milky Spore, but I am on the positive side. Beneficial Nematodes are the next all-natural choice. Apply them as the sun is setting on wet soil and lightly water after. Be sure to apply them before it gets too hot. We offer two sizes that cover up to 1/4 acre and 1/2 acre.

You’ll have to know how many square feet you need to treat and read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Categories : Bugs, Gardens, Lawns, News & Updates

Bumps On Leaves? Could Be Gall

By Wells Brothers
Monday, May 13th, 2019

leaf gallOdd little bumps on leaves and funny protuberances on your plant’s foliage may be a sign of pest, bacterial or fungal problems. They are called gall. A gall is an abnormal growth of plant tissue that can occur on leaves, twigs, branches, flower, roots, and fruit. They can be caused by insects, mites, nematodes, fungus or viruses. Galls are considered unsightly (in the eye of the beholder) but are rarely ever a serious problem. Because gall poses no risk to the plant, no action is required. The exception to this is the root-knot nematode that is found in vegetable gardens. If you find evidence of these tiny life suckers, the link below will help.

 

 

 

 

Categories : Lawns, News & Updates

Nutsedge Control Options

By Wells Brothers
Wednesday, May 1st, 2019

Nutsedge control options at Wells Brother Pet, Lawn and GardenOne of the aggressive weeds in lawns, flower beds and gardens is nutsedge, aka nutgrass. Nutsedge has a distinctive three-angled stem that is tough and fibrous. It can persist in an environment for years until the conditions are right for growth. Nutsedge spreads by seed, tubers, cultivation and can be introduced in topsoil, compost and nursery stock. One of the drawbacks to overwatering or poor drainage is the sudden appearance of nutsedge. Why? Because this stuff likes it moist. So, if you have nutsedge show up take a look at the irrigation system, including possible leaks in that area.

Controlling nutsedge is a process, not an event. Post-emergent herbicides are the most common and for me have been the most effective. One of the best is Sedgehammer. One package will cover 1,000 square feet and may require two to three applications. The other is called Sedge Ender. This Bonide product come in a hose end bottle and will cover up to 5,800 square feet. Neither of these products is safe for a veggie garden so read and follow the directions.

Now we go to the garden. I have tried some of the natural controls for nutsedge but all I did was hurt its feelings and not kill it. The most noninvasive way is to dig it out. The bad news is the nut maybe 18” deep and you have to remove the nut to be successful. The other way takes a little time. Plan on not planting a fall crop. In August or September remove all the plants from the garden. Spread about ten pounds of molasses for every 100 square feet of dirt and work it in just a little. Next, cover the entire garden with two sheets of newspaper (the black & white sheets). Then spread the mulch of your choice (we’ve got cedar and hardwood) over the newspaper an inch or so thick. In late February start working your garden as normal. What we have just done is to compost the entire garden. We (my dad and I) killed about 90% of the nutsedge on the first garden we tried with this process.

 

 

Categories : Blog, Gardens, Lawns, News & Updates

Dicks Blog – Controlling Fire Ants

By Wells Brothers
Wednesday, May 1st, 2019

fire ants

Fire Ants came from South America in the 1930s and made themselves right at home. Fire ants infest most of the southeastern United States. If you are new to the area it takes only seconds to be introduced to them. After that, they are close to the most hated critter on the planet. Then, all of a sudden you have a quest to kill all the fire ants that you see. However, killing them can be rewarding and frustrating all at the same time. There are tons of home remedies to fight fire ants but try to stick to the ones that have some science behind them. Remember that this is a process, not an event.

Tools to kill fire ants include baits and contact killers that are both synthetic and all-natural. Also included is a biological called a beneficial nematode. I have used them all and found baits “Come n Get It” and “Amdro” to be the most effective. We’ve also got a bait called Over N Out that has good results. Please read and follow the label directions. I would add that if you disturb the mound with a tool (not your foot, hand, elbow, etc.) before the application you will get a better kill. Contact killers such as Acephate (white stinky powder), Diatomaceous Earth, Boric acid and orange oil work better after the mound has been disturbed. I have found beneficial nematode to be a better preventative than curative. But it is a lot of fun to tell a friend that you have millions of microscopic roundworms that parasitize and kill insects in the refrigerator. All of these products including Knock Out Nematodes are available at Wells Brothers.

It’s about this time when folks ask “what about dried molasses?” Well, there is a bunch of information on the web about dried molasses killing and or displacing ants, including fire ants. The following Texas A&M University fire ant study looks at molasses on page 64.

There is an infinite amount of information on the web concerning dried molasses and ants. Look at the research carefully and make an informed decision.

The whales, baby seals, owls, and almost every other living thing has its own support group. I, however, do not belong to any of these groups. As of late, this has started to trouble me. My thought is to start a support group for the fire ant. Follow the link for the good fire ants.

Categories : Blog, Bugs, Gardens, Lawns
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